British escape, part I: London, England

London is my BFF. On this, my third visit to England in four years, I wasn’t sure what to expect. It was pre-Royal Wedding week, after all — and having had the greatest time on my previous visit, nerves pulsed in my stomach. What if London wasn’t the way I remembered it? What if — two years later — I felt older, wiser — and thoroughly less enchanted? What if something bad happened and it was forever tarnished for me?

Oh, the agony.

Well. It wasn’t tarnished — or anywhere close. It was . . . comfortable. Familiar. It was a place I’d already navigated and seen and photographed, which opened up a whole new door for me: feeling less like a tourist and more like a local. Branching out and doing different things.

I wasn’t a local, of course; I was an enthusiast. And I met locals — including Lyndsey — and was still the sweaty, disoriented and Tube map-clutching American wandering around the city with her family . . . but that was okay. I had my bearings. And seeing Big Ben peeking through the treetops still gave me a happy, familiar jolt of excitement.

Twice before I’d taken red-eye flights to England and arrived in London just as the city was waking up. This usually left me bleary-eyed and exhausted for the full day ahead of me, so we made a different plan this time: leaving Washington, D.C., in the morning and arriving in London at night. So that’s what we did — getting to Heathrow around 10 p.m. local time.

It was a very strange sensation, watching the clouds turned golden as our plane dipped closer to the United Kingdom. “It’s sunset!” I cried at one point, peering at my small watch. Night closed in and encompassed the plane, tampering with my body clock. It was 3 p.m. at home.

After a good night’s sleep, it was off to explore the city on Thursday and hunt for royal souvenirs — and that meant leaving our hotel near Heathrow for central London, where we were staying in Islington. With four heavy, 50-lb. suitcases apiece, getting to the next location was a little scary. We packed up our stuff and found a bus that would take us to the closest Tube station, where I was in charge of navigating us to our next hotel.

I’ll toot my own horn right here: over the course of our four combined days getting around London at both the beginning and end of the trip, I didn’t get us lost on the Underground one time. This is all thanks to my friend Stacy, who taught me not to be afraid of the train system with its complicated, crazy maze of lines and colors and names. After stowing our stuff, we left to explore the city.

We hopped on the Tube en route to Knightsbridge, where we had lunch at Spaghetti House near the world-famous department store Harrods. Exhaustion was setting in at that point, rendering me a hungry, disoriented beast; I woofed down some pasta after laughing with my family about a guy who looked like Edward Cullen on a “date” that didn’t seem to be going well; neither he or the hairbow-wearing lady he was sitting with were saying a word to each other.

The man had show-stoppingly good hair.

After walking through Knightsbridge, it was over to Hyde Park to try and find “traditional English gardens.” Like me, my mother is never without her camera — and we were eager to find flowers to photograph. It was a gray day, but warm and without rain, so we embarked on foot for the park and a chance to see the Diana Memorial Fountain.

And that’s where I screwed up.

We’d gotten off the Tube at Hyde Park Corner, which was close to lunch but . . . not the fountain. Without a phone on which to check a map or the location of the fountain, I had no idea how far away it would be — but hey, I debated, how bad of a walk could it be? We’re on one side of the park; the fountain’s on the other. We need some exercise. We can make it.

Right?

Well.

We made it. An hour or so of walking, detours throughout the grass expanse of Hyde Park, stops to photograph a few stray tulips and a Ferris wheel that had taken up residence there and . . . we made it. But by the time we arrived at the fountain, we weren’t much in the mood for photographing little kids splashing in the burbling water.

We were exhausted.

I felt bad. No, really — I did. I was okay, but I knew we were all suffering badly from jetlag (it was barely morning at home!) and the last thing we needed was a miles-long walk around an entire British park. Still, my family was a trio of troopers! We even walked over to Buckingham Palace next, where we purchased royal souvenirs and loitered in the shops there. Television crews lined the streets surrounding the palace, some interviewing passersby and others doing stand-ups with wedding news. My sister, a video journalist, was drawn to the cameramen and anchors like flies to honey; we couldn’t resist pausing by a woman with a BBC lanyard to see if she needed any, um, interviewees. (She didn’t, I guess.)

And then? Then we walked from Buckingham to Trafalgar Square, one of my favorite spots in the city, where was I tremendously disappointed to see the fountains weren’t turned on (but I did get to make a wish in the Victoria Memorial fountain by Buckingham)! Crowds still loitered on the steps of the National Gallery and gazed at the large clock counting down the hours until the 2012 Olympics, which will soon take the city by siege.

We sat for a few minutes to collect our thoughts (and calm our racing hearts), then headed to The Sherlock Holmes nearby — a restaurant I’ve been dying to visit since first spotting it in a calendar years ago. It looked so pretty! So fresh! So British! And it didn’t disappoint. Dinner was delicious — a perfect collection of hearty and savory foods, and it was fun to sit in a place with so much atmosphere. Downstairs the pub was jumpin’, with the after-work crowd loitering in the streets for happy hour. In the streets. With beers. That was a funny sight, honestly: people drinking right out in the open. At most spots in the U.S., do that and you’ll have a nice chat with a police officer for your “open container.”

After dinner, my energy level was hitting a low point — and our collective legs were screaming from the miles we’d walked that day. We popped in a Waterstone’s bookstore en route to the nearest Tube stop, where I had fun looking at the differences between British and American book covers (like this one, for Emma Donoghue’s Room). Funny signs littered the store, too, and I really enjoyed the ambiance of wandering around a city bookstore in the evening. Though I left empty handed (trying to preserve much-coveted space in my suitcase!), it was a fun visit.

Friday dawned bright and sunny and, thankfully, I was feeling way better after a good night’s sleep. We hopped over to Covent Garden, another place that had long been on my “to be visited in London” list, and enjoyed soaking up the atmosphere of the busy commercial area. Street performers were swamped by crowds of tourists and locals with cameras and phones, laughing at the antics of a man performing magic with audience participation. I loved walking through the open-air markets and dodging in the little stores.

Hunger was taking over by the time lunch rolled around — and how fortunate, because I was meeting up with the lovely Lyndsey of Teadevotee! We’d made plans to see one another when I announced my travel plans months before and found each other at Bill’s, a lovely cafe between Covent Garden and Leicester Square. I’ve met up with fellow book bloggers several times before and am never, ever disappointed; Lyndsey was exactly the funny, sweet person I felt I knew. She recognized me just as I recognized her and, after a moment of accidentally appearing in the background of a fashion commercial (?? Oh, London!), we made it the cafe.

Poor Lyndsey probably didn’t expect to dine with a table of journalists. It’s in our nature to pepper innocent people with questions, so the inquisition began: what do you do? What does your husband do? What’s life in England like? Are you excited about the wedding? (I’m sure everyone in London is really, really sick of being asked that.) Lyndsey was gracious enough to answer our countless inquiries and even brought me a gift: a copy of a Jane Austen biography that I’ve never seen and can’t wait to read. Sweetness! We said our goodbyes and snapped a few photos. I tried not to look like the frizzy-haired, jetlagged monster I was.

With hours to go before meeting up with our tour group later that evening to embark on an eight-day jaunt through the rest of the UK, Mom, Dad, Kate and I went over to see the London Eye, the famous Ferris wheel constructed in 1999. We queued up with hundreds of people to get a birds-eye view of London, which was awesome — and very different from the air! London is huge. Massive. Sprawling in every direction, giant and encompassing . . . and how strange to see Big Ben from the air, where it’s not nearly as majestic as when you’re on foot.

We took a riverboat cruise on the Thames River next, which took us up and down the river en route to Tower Bridge and back. I love being on the water — especially on vacation. You see so much more that way. Though I couldn’t snap many photos without someone’s head or camera in them, it was fun to see the city that way . . . and so nice to just sit down.

After the boat ride, I convinced my family to walk across Westminster Bridge, which spans the Thames, to get a closer look at Parliament and Big Ben (again). On my last trip, walking across that bridge at sunset was one of my fondest memories . . . magical and surreal. It felt good to be there again, but hard to believe — especially since I wasn’t sure when I’d ever make it across the pond again!

We wrapped up our third night in the city by having dinner at the hotel and getting a good night’s rest — and we’d need it. On Saturday morning, our alarms chimed at the ungodly hour of 5 a.m. local time to begin the leg of our tour with Trafalgar Tours, which I’ll tell you all about . . . next time.

Hint: it involves the English countryside, cathedrals, countless medieval streets and clotted cream fudge.

If nothing else, you have to come back for the fudge.

Book review: ‘Rowan The Strange’ by Julie Hearn

In a classic case of don’t judge a book by its cover, Julie Hearn’s Rowan The Strange is a moving, emotional and unforgettable read centering around 13-year-old Rowan Scrivener, a British teen battling “voices” in his head. It’s 1939 and England is at war — just as the battles begin in the Scrivener home. When Rowan accidentally harms his young sister, his parents decide it’s time to take him where he can get well: an asylum in the countryside.

Under the care of Dr. von Metzer, a German with experience in mental illness, Rowan undergoes electric shock therapy — and develops interesting new personality traits. While undergoing treatment, he meets Dorothea, a young woman who believes each of us has a guardian angel looking out for us. Spirited, angry and sarcastic, Dorothea “runs” the ward where Rowan stays — which, for a while, includes just the two of them.

The unlikely friends work through their issues together as they prepare for the Christmas pantomime, a play the asylum’s attendees put on each holiday season. After Rowan is cast in a major role, he must confront his own fears to perform his part well. And maybe help others in the process.

There aren’t enough great things to say about Rowan The Strange, a book I read for the Nerds Heart YA tournament. After pulling up the book — which I could only find imported from the UK, where it is published — I immediately cringed at the creepy cover, reading the description with a growing sense of unease. A teenage boy? A mental patient? An asylum? World War II? . . . Not my usual reading fare. And I seriously considered wrapping the book to hide the cover art, so much did that blue face disturb me. (And prompted my sister to walk into the room, wrinkle her nose and yell, “What the hell are you reading?!”)

Well, I was reading Rowan. And what a strange, glorious adventure it was.

The book’s strength lies in our main character — a young boy who has no idea what’s happening to him and why, who desperately clings to the belief that someday he’ll be “normal.” Taunted as “Ro the Strange” by classmates and his sister, Rowan tries to control the voice in his head that causes him to have “panics” and do strange things, but he’s powerless to stop it. What carried me through the narrative was the belief that Rowan was, in his heart, a good person — a good son, a good brother. This wasn’t his fault. It wasn’t anyone’s fault, really, but it most especially wasn’t his.

Every preconceived notion I had about the plot proved wrong. I assumed the Scriveners would be a surly lot, angry that they had a “damaged” son, embarrassed by him and desperate to send him away. (Wrong.) I assumed Rowan would be an awkward, silly boy, dangerous and scary and just plain weird. (Wrong.) I assumed Dr. Von would be a masochist, a deranged German doctor with no regard for his patients’ well-being and only a regard for the “science” of the experiments he performed on them. (Wrong.)

In fact, I was wrong about nearly everything in Hearn’s novel — including my own belief that I would loathe this one, turning the pages as if weights were positioned on my fingers. In reality? I tore through it in record time, eager to find out what happened to Rowan and hopeful that he would find the solace he seeked. I loved his nana, a kindly woman who never once treated Rowan like he was someone to fear, and his parents, who were so supportive. Against the backdrop of World War II in London, the Scriveners managed to stay brave, strong and loving — even with their children all over the country.

You know? I just loved this book. If you get the chance, I think you’ll — surprisingly! — really love it, too. And check out Nicole’s review of this marvelous novel.


4.75 out of 5!

ISBN: 9780192729200 ♥ Purchase from Book DepositoryAuthor Website
Personal copy purchased by Meg


Rowan The Strange was read in conjunction with Nerds Heart YA, a tournament showcasing under represented young adult literature. Check back tonight to learn whether Lost by Jacqueline Davies or Rowan The Strange will advance to the next round! My decision will be made with Nicole of Linus’s Blanket and posted at 7 p.m. Tuesday.

My big, fat London weekend!

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The world traveler herself!

When I arrived in London in 2007, a warm, rushing feeling swept over me — exhilaration, pure and simple, and I’ve been unable to fight off my obsession with all things English since! I spent two days with my family there en route to Italy, and the experience was totally life-changing. For the past two years I’ve been dreaming of making it back to the UK and, when the opportunity finally presented itself, I decided to take that vast and terrifying leap out in the world of travel . . . on my own. And what an amazing weekend I had.

My friend Stacy is studying at the University of Westminster in Harrow, just outside the city, and has been in my favorite place since September. At the gentle (and then forceful) persistence of my parents and sister, I booked a ticket in March to visit her this past weekend. And then I planned. And packed. And obsessed. And worried. And ultimately became very, very excited — though still very nervous!

On Thursday, May 21, we left for Dulles International Airport in Virginia. My 8:45 p.m. flight took off right on time and, for the first time in my life, I made it onto a plane after saying goodbye to Mom, Dad and Katie at security. I changed out my money before boarding so that when I landed at Heathrow Airport at 9 a.m. May 22, I was ready to go. And that was a good thing.

Charting my progress on the plane. Almost to Ireland!

Charting my progress on the plane. Almost to Ireland!

My British Airways flight was comfortable, if not exactly spacious! I managed to get some sleep on the six-and-a-half hour plane ride over, crammed up against the window with two British businessmen to my right. Just listening to the lilting, exotic accents of the flight crew — and my fellow travelers — was enough to get my blood really pumping! Hearing and seeing Brits in the flesh was more than a little exciting. Most of the nervousness I felt saying goodbye to my family melted away as I watched our plane creeping closer and closer to the UK on the TV screen in front of me.

By the time I landed at Heathrow, I was running on pure adrenaline. I had to keep my passport firmly in hand as I made my way through customs, telling the British agent that I was “on holiday” and staying with a friend for just four days. She stamped my passport wanly and let me pass. I turned on my American cell phone, a little worried about what sort of charges I was incurring, but definitely needing to find Stacy! She rang almost immediately and told me where to find her . . . which wasn’t a problem, really, considering I spotted her almost immediately after leaving the international arrivals area! I yelled out to her and waved while she snapped a photo of me with my heavy red suitcase, and we hugged as I started chattering unstoppably.

After making our way over to the underground station in the airport, Stacy helped me buy my first day pass for the Tube — and thus began my obsession with London’s popular mode of transportation! The underground lets you go anywhere, do anything and be wherever you want — all for roughly seven pounds (or $11). I was completely fascinated by all the travelers getting on and off our car, many of them glancing over casually as the two American friends talked over one another — we hadn’t seen each other in six months! I couldn’t believe that I was actually in England — that I successfully navigated my way through two airports and travelled alone! This was absolutely a huge step for me.

And so my first day in the UK began with the two of us taking the tube to Harrow and getting settled in Stacy’s dorm room. I commuted to college and never had the “dorm” experience but, from what I can tell, her building was very nice! Stacy’s room was great and fine for me, an Anglophile who didn’t really plan on getting much (or any) sleep while in London. I unpacked a bit, took a shower and repacked my bag. Then we went out on the town.

Pizza, or salad?

Pizza, or salad?

I hung out and napped a little in the salon where Stacy was getting her hair done, and then we went downtown to do a little shopping on Baker Street, have dinner at Pizza Express and see “Angels & Demons” at a Vue movie theater. I bought plenty of souvenirs as soon as they were in front of me — it’s hard for me to pace myself when I see tons of stuff emblazoned with the union jack! For dinner I had a “Legera” pizza — a centerless pizza filled with salad! It was something different and, though jet-lag really caught up with me around meal time, I toughed it out. Before going to the movie we stopped in W.H. Smith, a large British bookstore, and I bought the British version of J.K. Rowling’s famed Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone and a paperback for my sister.

And that tied in perfectly with our other afternoon activity — seeing Platform 9 3/4 at King’s Cross Station! It wasn’t really easy, and we did a fair amount of wandering before spotting it. I was trying to spot it on my own but, after circling around a few times with no luck, I broke down and asked a security guard. Conscious of my accent and not wanting to play into any “rude American” stereotypes that might be circulating out there, I tentatively walked up to the sharp-tongued man.

At Platform 9 3/4!

At Platform 9 3/4!

“Hi, excuse me. Can I ask you a stupid question?” I began, smiling sweetly.

The guard eyed me with amusement, flicking his eyes between Stacy and me. “Let me guess. You’re looking for Harry Potter?”

“Yes, actually, I am. Is it that obvious?”

The guard laughed. “He’s not working today. You just missed him,” he said. “And he doesn’t work bank holidays.” (Monday was a bank holiday. I don’t know what that means, but there you go.)

Stacy and I both laughed with him as he indicated that we should keep going around the corner, heading back toward the end of the station. We thanked him and found the queue right after that — our tourists, including two Americans, who also stopped by to see the famed spot. After waiting our turn, Stacy snapped me “pushing” the cart right through the wall — something all Hogwarts students must do at the station in order to board the train bound for school. I was thrilled to be there and totally camped it up! Tourist attractions are made for me, I’ve decided. I buy into everything with fervent enthusiasm.

The movie was really good and I enjoyed sharing Stacy’s “sweet and salty” popcorn — there’s no artificial butter going on there! We chose a mixture of the two offerings — the sweet or salty kernels. And after getting a ribbing from the theater employee about the movie at “2050” — the clocks are all on 24-hour time — we got to enjoy the film. All of the summer previews were for American movies, which really interested me to note!

We made our way back to the dorm after the movie, making it back to the room around 11:30 p.m. After I called to check in back home and set out my clothes for the following day, Stacy and I settled in to talk and watch an episode of Absolutely Fabulous,” a British television show she loves. We both fell asleep while watching the show on her laptop, an activity that proved to be a weekend tradition.

At Buckingham Palace

At Buckingham Palace

Saturday morning dawned bright and clear. I was so worried I would be exhausted and useless on the trip, so I packed a case of Red Bull to chug every day before we set out. It turns out I really didn’t need it, though — I adjusted surprisingly well to British time and woke up bright and ready to go at 9 a.m. Saturday. By 11:30 a.m. we were fed, dressed and on the tube headed to Green Park, just outside Buckingham Palace. And our string of good luck began — we walked right up to the palace in time to see the changing of the guard! Just as I was commenting on how I though the event took place each day at noon and maybe we would catch, I glanced down for the time and realized that I couldn’t have planned it much better myself. We shot tons of photos, mostly crowd shots, from atop a barrier, then moved in closer to take photos through the fence.

Cute hot dog guy. Hard to see the hot smile here, but trust me -- CUTE.

Cute hot dog guy. Hard to see the hot smile here, but trust me -- CUTE.

From Buckingham we walked across the street to the Hard Rock Cafe, where I picked up souvenirs for my friend Kelly. I took several shots of the iconic red telephone booths here, as well as the red postal box. I basically just had the camera glued to my hand and fired as often as was physically possible. And my battery never once died! Not even when we got to Hyde Park, our next stop, where I photographed one beautiful, flawless pink rose after another.

And speaking of flawless? I fell in love with the man working at the hot dog stand just at the entrance of Hyde Park. I didn’t exactly go to Britain thinking I’d find someone to share my everlasting love, but let me tell you — this was the guy! Stacy laughed as I ordered my hot dog and grabbed a bottle of water, then walked away with a star-struck, dreamy expression on my face. He was very nice, though a bit hurried, and just looked like the classically handsome British guy I would dig. I got not one but two adorable smiles from him, and our fingers brushed as I handed him a two-pound coin! Too bad I’ll never see him again. Stacy managed to snag a picture of him as I hastily ate my lunch en route to the neighboring gardens.

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Rose at Hyde Park

The flowers at Hyde Park were easily the prettiest I saw all weekend — and probably the nicest I’d ever seen. After I showed Stacy how to get some macro shots — oh, how I love macro! — we both wandered up and down part of the Diana, Princess of Wales Memorial Walk in the park to take pictures of the beautiful roses and other flora and fauna. Lots of folks were out lounging in the sun or snapping photos, too, but the park is so big (350 acres) that we weren’t exactly walking on top of one another. I took almost 90 flower shots before we headed on through the park, wandering downtown until we came upon the busy London streets I expected to see and made detours into Harvey Nichols, where Stacy interns, and famous department store Harrods, where I grabbed souvenirs for my coworkers and grandparents. From that busy intersection we hopped on the tube again to head to Piccadilly Circus, the next item on my list.

Piccadilly was nice, though not quite what I was expecting. While it was very crowded and in the heart of the city, there wasn’t really anything to do there — it’s just a giant intersection. So that was a quick jaunt. After plenty more pictures, we stopped inside the tube station to ask for directions to Trafalgar Square from Piccadilly. On our way to Trafalgar we paused to get dinner at TGI Friday’s, a very bustling restaurant. Now before you go crazy about me eating at an American restaurant when I’m in England, let me tell you — the food was totally different! And the place was hectic. But Stacy and I had a really good chat and, thus fortified by chicken and Diet Coke, we walked on to Trafalgar. I took a nasty fall in Leicester Square on the way, but managed to get back up with only a bruised knee, hurt ankle and wounded ego! I still have a really sore bruise several days later, but absolutely nothing was going to ruin the trip for me!

trafalgar_square

Trafalgar Square, one of my favorite spots in London

Trafalgar was awesome — so beautiful and enchanting. Exactly what I pictured it would be! Evening was fast approaching at this point, and the “golden hour” was spilling over the fountains and gobs of people gathered everywhere in front of the National Portrait Gallery. Stacy and I hovered on the large set of steps and listened to a group of protestors railing against “the media” and the infiltration of conservative ideas into the hearts of Brits, and I did a fair amount of quiet heckling! But I was too mesmerized by the square to worry about a group of people yelling about the same stuff they yell about here. After I walked partway down the steps, Stacy excitedly told me to look out. I did. At a group of rowdy football (that’s soccer for we Americans, natch) fans hovering around one of Trafalgar’s giant lions.

“What, at them?” I squawked, snapping a photo.

“No, not at them! Look up. Over there.”

And there, illuminated in the distance, was Big Ben.

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Ben needs no introduction!

Now, I saw Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament in 2007 — but from the top of a cold, windy double-decker bus tooling along at 30 or 40 miles per hour, barely pausing by the majestic structure. Definitely not from the ground, and definitely not when I had plenty of time to admire how awesome it really is. After hanging out at Trafalgar for a while more, we decided we had to get closer to it. And so we started walking.

Like my dad always points out to us when we head to neighboring Washington, D.C., things definitely are much farther than they appear! Big Ben seemed to be calling out to us — and not from that far away. Though the sun was starting to really set, casting shorter and shorter shadows over buildings and cars, we took off toward it. And not twenty minutes or so later, we were standing right in front of it! I was sufficiently impressed, I’ll say that. Both by our ability to keep walking — even with the busted ankle and whatnot — and our ability to track it down quickly. We walked by the River Thames and took plenty more photos of Ben, parliament and the London Eye, the giant Ferris wheel just across the river. Highlighted in the pinks, oranges and blues of the sunset, it was absolutely an amazing sight. We lingered for more than an hour snapping photos and watching others walking with us across the bridge stretching across the water, everyone looking so content in the cool air.

London Eye at sunset

London Eye at sunset

Flush from our success at finding Big Ben and other London landmarks and not yet beaten down by absolute fatigue — that would set in later — Stacy and I foolishly headed off along the riverbank in search of Tower Bridge. A police officer had vaguely told us the direction in which we would find it and, having absolutely no concept of far it really was, we started walking. We passed London Bridge — you know, the one that’s falling down? — and trudged along for what felt like hours, eventually stopping another passerby to ask how much further Tower Bridge actually was. He told us we would find it after passing several more bridges and, lo and behold, we eventually did! It was still very far in the distance — way too far to walk, even if it wasn’t already after ten p.m. — but we did admire it for a while before trying to find a tube station.

The closest one, we were told by another guard, was Southwark. So after dragging our sore, tired feet and sleepy heads along the sidewalks of London, we eventually came upon the station. At that point, my entire body was absolutely ranting at me — what did I think I was doing?! We’d been walking for almost ten hours straight, pausing just to have dinner. My busted knee and ankle were getting sore. Jet-lag and crankiness were setting in. So Southwark couldn’t come along fast enough!

Until we realized it was closed. The station was closed.

At one of the famous red phone booths

At one of the famous red phone booths

I tried not to panic as Stacy guided us over to a nearby bus station, where we waited with a crazy woman ranting about how “they ask too much” (who they were and why they were asking “too much” of this poor lady, I’ll never know) until one of the familiar red buses appeared to save us. We rode to the Elephant & Castle station and took the tube back to Harrow, a very long ride for two sleepy ladies but a welcome relief from our day of extreme touring and walking. I barely remember falling asleep Saturday night, but I did call home and filled my mom in on many of the sites we captured on film.

Things were pretty slow-going Sunday morning. When I woke up on the air mattress, I felt like someone had taken a sledge hammer and smashed in almost every part of my body. My feet and legs hurt so badly, they felt permanently cramped and twisted. Just wriggling my toes hurt. I forced myself to shower, put on some comfortable clothes and slipped on a borrowed pair of “trainers” (or sneakers) from Stacy. Much to my mom’s chagrin, I’d only packed sandals — I had absolutely no idea how hard I would be on my feet! Being so notoriously stubborn, I once again learned my lesson the hard way. At least I’d actually thought to pack socks.

Hampton Court Palace in Surrey

Hampton Court Palace in Surrey

Thank goodness our Sunday was a little bit less hectic, far more low-key — and included a trip by train out to Surrey to visit Hampton Court Palace, home of King Henry VIII. Dad and I are obsessed with The Tudors,” the popular Showtime television show detailing the lives of the notorious womanizer and powerful English leader whose power and religious influence still impact modern British society. I loved touring the building and the traditional English gardens, many of which were enormous and different than I expected. Although they originally called for rain on Sunday – the only day precipitation was in the forecast – it was really hot, sunny and completely cloudless. We walked around the perimeter of the huge estate, getting sunburned and people watching. I really liked the huge, crazy-looking shrubs around the property! I felt like I was in a totally foreign place.

Much taller than I am!

Much taller than I am!

Like the times I’ve stood in the Sistine Chapel, rode in a gondola in Venice or looked up at the Roman Coliseum, it was impossible to realize where I actually was as I was there. We look at pictures in books, read about places online and watch movies and TV shows set in these famous places but, when you’re really standing there yourself, the experience is so surreal that it’s hard to really grasp what’s going on. I couldn’t really fathom that I was standing in King Henry’s real dining room, looking up at beautiful stained glass windows and tapestries originally created for him in the 1500s. How can modern onlookers process that? It’s craziness! And we don’t have anything nearly that old in America, so the antique quality of everything is totally a strange concept for me.

After we were finished enjoying Hampton Court, we walked back up the bridge over the Thames and got this famous ice cream my good friend – and Brit by heritage – Palmer is always talking about, complete with a chocolate flake stick! I’d never even heard of it, but he promised me it would be delicious. Definitely good. Stacy enjoyed hers, too, right before it fell off her cone and she caught it one-handed! It got all over the front of her dress and dribbled down her chin. We laughed as we tried to find a washroom for her clean up, eventually making it back to the train station. Thankfully it all washed out!

Back at the dorms that night, Stacy cooked spaghetti for our final dinner – comprised of ingredients we’d gotten at a British grocery store, Sainsbury’s, that morning. Stacy pointed out how much cheaper food prices were there, including a loaf of bread for 98p (about $1.56). We ate the delicious dinner in the dorm kitchen with the windows open – very pretty and relaxing – and watched “The Devil Wears Prada” on Stacy’s laptop. We chatted away for the rest of the night before eventually falling asleep around midnight, another nightly tradition.

I woke up early Sunday feeling completely, utterly exhausted – all of the running of the past few days definitely caught up with me! But since I only had a few hours left before my 3 p.m. flight out, we had to make the most of my remaining time in England. We took the tube to Harrow-On-The-Hill for breakfast and made a quick stop in Primark, a big Irish clothing/accessories store in what looked like a mall (but Stacy tells me it wasn’t). If I didn’t know for a fact that my suitcase was about to burst open at the slightest touch, I probably would have grabbed some tops! Everything was very inexpensive and really colorful. The place was jammed.

Stacy and the famous ice cream at Hampton Court

Stacy and the famous ice cream at Hampton Court

We walked heavily back to the dorms for the final time that morning, gathering up all of my stuff and walking back to Northwick Park, Stacy’s underground stop. She helped me lug my gigantic bag up the stairs – elevators, or lifts, are shockingly scarce – and we said goodbye before I boarded the train for Heathrow again! Since the ride is about an hour and a half, I told Stacy I would be fine to get to the airport alone – all I had to do was change trains at King’s Cross and make sure I boarded the ride car to Terminal 5. I was pretty freaked out about doing this early in the week but, after spending all weekend on the underground, I was cocky enough to believe I could find my way by myself!

Thankfully, I did – and it was really an awesome experience spending those last few hours by myself. As Stacy herself told me, it really made me feel so calm, independent and alive . . . just really exhilarated. I know it sounds pretty silly to talk about riding a subway like that, but I can’t exactly describe it! Just being so far from home, having made this journey alone and finding my way . . . it was really powerful for me. I listened to Coldplay’s “Viva La Vida” and Strawberry Swing,” my favorite song, came on, my eyes started to tear up. As Chris Martin croons, “It’s such, such a perfect day . . .”

And it was – a perfect day, a perfect weekend. We all know that you can’t visit the same place twice, and I really wondered if I’d built London up into some sort of crazy ideal over the past few years. The last time I was there with my family I’d just graduated from college and hadn’t yet started my full-time job, so I was flying off without the sense of adulthood and responsibility I now associate with my everyday life. That was the first time I’d been overseas and was totally overwhelmed with culture shock, but this time I knew more of what to expect.

underground

Street scene, one of my favorites!

I just wasn’t sure if I would . . . feel the same way about it again. I’d fallen in love with a city where I’d only spent two days – and this time, only four. But the weekend was enough to not only stoke the embers of my obsession with England, but really send that flame soaring skyward! I loved it as much as I hoped, and haven’t felt so in the moment in years. I didn’t worry about work or anxiety or anything while I was there – I was just there. I finally, finally let myself be here now. Definitely magical.

I’m sure I’m forgetting some of the little things that made the weekend special, but I’ll add them in as they come up over time! Thanks to everyone who listened to me prattle on and humored my Anglophilia leading up to and following this event . . . and thanks in advance for listening to all of my stories – the ones I’ll probably be telling for the rest of my life!

I took more than 600 photos while I was gone, and I’ve posted many of my favorites on my Flickr account. Check those out here.

If you’re interested in just my garden photos from Hyde Park, check out the blooms here!

Cheers!

Off to London!

Off to London!


Photo by talented Flickr user Anirudh Koul

Photo by talented Flickr user Anirudh Koul



After months of anticipation, the time is finally here! I’ll be flying to London tomorrow evening and can’t wait to have one seriously jam-packed, exciting and crazy weekend. I look forward to sharing all of my adventures at write meg! when I get back! Thanks to everyone for the good wishes. Have a safe and happy Memorial Day for all in the U.S., too!

See you Tuesday!